Arnaud Lambert Coulee de St Cyr Saumur Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg (blanc) 2020
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From 1.7ha of vines averaging 70 years old on about 30 cm of sandy-clayey silt over limestone. Whole-bunch pressed and vinified with indigenous yeast and aged on fine lees for 12 months in a combination of new and 1-3 year-old barriques.
The wine is then returned to tank for another 8 months of ageing on fine lees. Fine and elegant with an expansive palate, finishing long and complex. A beautifully executed Burgundian analogue. Bottled un-fined and unfiltered.
2021 review The 2021 Saumur Blanc Coulée de Saint-Cyr is a tight, pure, citrus-driven Chenin Blanc, with time in barrel and partial malolactic adding roundness and curving the vintage's natural angularity. Bone-dry and saline, nectarine fruit meets with a toasty, festive, spiced barrel element that needs time to settle and further integrate, but I'm not worried by this. The 2021 is an edgy, nervous wine, but it has length, line and concentration that will see it evolve and improve with bottle age. Textural and long through the finish, this is quietly impressive. 93 points, Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous, May 2024.
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